Nepal is a home to eight of the world's ten highest mountains; Nepal Himalayas has been the focus of outstanding achievements in the world of peak climbing expeditions with its identified one thousand three hundred ten peaks above 6,000 meters peak. In the Khumbu Himal, the north of Namche Bazaar is a long line of small rocky peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. From the Thamo village to the north 6,186 meter (20,290 feet) high Kyajo Ri is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Kyajo Ri peak is an outstanding climbing peak among the trekking peaks of Nepal Himalaya.

The Kyajo Ri peak was officially opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism in 2002 and listed on group ‘A’ climbing peak by Nepal Mountaineering Association. The first ascent was made that year by a British team. There are few routes to climb the Kyajo Ri peak as from Machharmo side & from the Mende side. We followed the more difficult route as southeast ridge only the second route for the summit. In terms why would you like to climb this peak? Because………….

• At almost 6200 meters, it is high, but not too high. Higher peaks take more time for acclimatization and lower peaks are simply dwarfed by the giants all around.
• It is a beautiful mountain, with a sharp defined summit, and is the highest peak in its immediate vicinity.
• The route actually ends on the highest magnificent pointed summit, unlike Lobuche East, or Island Peak (at least as they are commonly climbed, stopping on lower fore-summits, shy of the penultimate point).
• Situated in the middle of the Khumbu, it is surrounded by impressive summits and has fantastic views, including lots of 8000ers.
• It is not crowded, at least not yet!
• It is technical without being extreme.
• The route is free of fixed rope and anchors, retaining its pristine, wild condition.
• It lacks unacceptable levels of objective hazard.
• The route faces south, towards the sun and warmth.
• It has a beautiful, comfortable and quiet base camp, located in a wonderful isolated valley.
• It is classified as a "Trekking Peak" which permits a less expensive, less complicated expedition.

Difficulty

Kyajo ri Expedition is a difficult expedition among the listed trekking peaks by Nepal mountaineers Association. There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp 1 is a long way and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult talus and giant boulders
From Camp 2 we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 60° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyajo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche East or Island Peak.